All posts tagged: ingredients

Former Catholic Monk Takes L’Oreal to Court!

A former Roman Catholic monk has sued L’Oréal over the use of the anti-ageing skin care ingredient adenosine, which he says he holds the exclusive license to. Brother Dennis Wyrzykowski of the Teresian Carmelites – a non-profit organisation that was formerly recognised by the Catholic Church until 2008 – launched an anti-ageing facial moisturiser in 2009 called Easamine. Selling Easamine through his for-profit subsidiary Carmel Labs, Wyrzykowski raised funds for the Teresian Carmelites and its charitable programmes. Carmel Labs was given the exclusive license to use adenosine technology, covered by two patents, for all cosmetic applications in 2008. The license agreement arose due to an ongoing relationship between the religious order and Dr James Jobson, Jr, the former Chairman of the Department of Physiology at the University of Massachusetts Medical School. Read full article at CosmeticBusiness.com

Olive Oil: on Your Skin or in Your Plate?

Olive oil is an emollient — a moisturising agent able to reduce water loss and cover the skin with a protective film, and it can also penetrate deeply into the skin. For many years, olive oil has been used to care for dry skin. It was believed that the application of pure oil would soften and nourish dry thinning skin, make it more resilient and elastic, restore its protective properties. However latest research has demonstrated that olive oil should not be used as a primary skin care solution, for its effect would be quite the contrary of what you’d expect. Olive oil contains quite a lot of oleic acid which can gradually dissolve the lipid layer of the epidermis thus weakening the skin’s barrier function. The skin then loses its own natural ability to retain water, dries up and becomes thin. If the skin is healthy to begin with, applying olive oil for a relatively short period of time (up to 9 months) does not normally cause any side effects. But even then one should …

Getting Under Your Skin

I develop cosmetics for a living specialising on topical skin care as opposed to injectables and other invasive solutions. In my professional life I am quite often asked, How does a cream even penetrate into the skin? Doesn’t it just stay on the surface (being therefore useless)? Most popular opinions on the subject are: Nothing gets inside the skin, because it is our impenetrable protective barrier (and therefore you need to stick needles in your face and inject things or use laser, dermabrasion and radio waves to achieve any kind of effect), or; Only very expensive cosmetics would be able to penetrate into the skin. Here’s how it all really works. One of the skin’s primary functions is indeed protection, and not every substance would be able to get through this barrier. But it’s not impenetrable either. Your skin is not a space suit that can only be pierced with a needle or a laser beam. There are substances, dermatological medicinal creams among them, that are able to get so deep through the skin that …

Firming Cream for the Bust: Will It Work?

To tell you the truth, the only thing that can restore the breasts’ shape and size, if they changed dramatically after childbirth and breastfeeding, is a surgeon’s scalpel. But don’t despair right away! First of all, many women seem to think that their breast should return back to normal instantly—the next day after they stopped nursing. It is impossible though—the restoration of the mammary glands’ shape and size takes several months, in some cases up to a year or a year and a half. This is not the right moment for surgery but a perfect one for applying all sorts of bust care cosmetics. During this time the skin responds to external stimulation really well, and the natural recovery process can be enhanced and sped up. The three crucial factors in the process of the breasts’ shape restoration are: the strengthening of the muscles, supporting the breasts; physical stimulation of the skin’s tonicity and breast support; cosmetic care with active ingredients enhancing the skin’s elasticity in this area. Pectoral muscles are not the only ones …

Dimethicone Debate

Dimethicone: What does this word mean? Some easily impressible journalists and bloggers seem to think that it’s something really terrible that should not ever be used in cosmetic skincare. Let’s look into it, shall we.  Dimethicone’s chemical name sounds rather intimidating—Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). It is a polymer—a substance that consists of many identical molecules. Polymers are not necessarily synthesised—they can be organic too, and a lot of them are present in the human body, hyaluronic acid being one of them. Maple syrup and cane sugar are made up by polymers as well. So, we’ve established that dimethicone is a polymer. It is made up by a large number of molecules, all identical and based on silicone [O-Si(CH3)2]n. This makes dimethicone basically an organic silicone. It is an optically clear, inert and scentless silicone oil. So what makes dimethicone so attractive to cosmetic manufacturers? It is, first of all, its incredible stability. Dimethicone does not go bad in cold or hot temperatures, it is not affected by UV-radiation, it stops bacterial and fungal reproduction, and it is environmentally friendly—what’s not …