All posts filed under: skincare

Getting Under Your Skin

I develop cosmetics for a living specialising on topical skin care as opposed to injectables and other invasive solutions. In my professional life I am quite often asked, How does a cream even penetrate into the skin? Doesn’t it just stay on the surface (being therefore useless)? Most popular opinions on the subject are: Nothing gets inside the skin, because it is our impenetrable protective barrier (and therefore you need to stick needles in your face and inject things or use laser, dermabrasion and radio waves to achieve any kind of effect), or; Only very expensive cosmetics would be able to penetrate into the skin. Here’s how it all really works. One of the skin’s primary functions is indeed protection, and not every substance would be able to get through this barrier. But it’s not impenetrable either. Your skin is not a space suit that can only be pierced with a needle or a laser beam. There are substances, dermatological medicinal creams among them, that are able to get so deep through the skin that …

Botox Can Affect Your Emotions

It has long been suggested that feedback signals from facial muscles influence emotional experience. The recent surge in use of botulinum toxin (BTX) to induce temporary muscle paralysis offers a unique opportunity to directly test this “facial feedback hypothesis.” Previous research shows that the lack of facial muscle feedback due to BTX-induced paralysis influences subjective reports of emotional experience, as well as brain activity associated with the imitation of emotional facial expressions. However, it remains to be seen whether facial muscle paralysis affects brain activity, especially the amygdala, which is known to be responsive to the perception of emotion in others. Further, it is unknown whether these neural changes are permanent or whether they revert to their original state after the effects of BTX have subsided. The present study sought to address these questions by using functional magnetic resonance imaging to measure neural responses to angry and happy facial expressions in the presence or absence of facial paralysis. Results Consistent with previous research, amygdala activity was greater in response to angry compared to happy faces …

Skin Care for Men

Urban Myth: men need their own special cosmetics! Women’s stuff does not work for male skin. Indeed, one hears such statements often enough. ‘Cosmetics for men’ is set on separate shelves in stores, it looks manly and intimidating with all the metal, dark packaging and aggressive brand names—one of the most popular men’s lines is called ‘Bulldog’. But do men really need special solutions?  Male skin is actually different from female in several interesting ways. Men’s skin is about 25% thicker. Male hormones, androgens, make the dermis thicker and more solid. And with men the skin’s thickness and density only start decreasing after the age of 50.  It’s got more collagen too! Some might even say, that women who choose to age naturally appear 10–15 years older then men of the same age. However, since men use sunscreens less often and are generally more negligent when it comes to skin care, they lose this advantage fairly quickly. Men and women lose approximately the same amount of collagen for natural causes—about 1% a year starting from …

The Worst Thing in the World

I got an email today that said: “There is nothing worse than looking in the mirror and seeing a new wrinkle…”. Really? Are you serious?  Nothing worse than seeing a new wrinkle? How lucky you are. Try saying that to people who are fighting cancer. Young cancer patients would do anything to live long enough to see their faces wrinkled. What a tactless and egocentric thing to say, to place a wrinkle in a centre of the human life. Sure, most women are not happy to see their faces change with age. But it’s not a tragedy and certainly not the worst thing in the world! And you can actually conquer it with very little effort: Change your skin care. Find a good beautician and ask their advice on your skincare routine. Consult a dermatologist. Today there are dozens of options to postpone skin ageing, such as RF-therapy, LED, etc. Stay positive and be grateful to have made it to the age of wrinkles when so many people don’t.    

It’s My Face & I’ll Frown If I Want To!

It’s funny how often you hear the word «calm» when discussing botulinum toxin injections for wrinkles correction. Your face will look calm, the skin will be smooth, you will look younger and so on. I’m sure you’ve seen similar ads at one point or another. Eradicating one’s facial expression means no more wrinkles—it is a well-known, scientifically confirmed fact. In more accurate terms, botulinum toxin chemically denervates the muscles, blocking the neuromuscular transmission process in them completely. Consequently, the stimulus sent by the brain cortex is rendered ineffective. You brain says,—You’re miffed, now frown!—but your muscles are unaffected by its command, your face stays serene and nobody notices your discontent. Some people might think it’s a good thing. Well, I disagree. What’s so good about a person’s being unable to demonstrate their emotions? Why are we supposed to keep our anger, contemplation, joy or irritation a secret? I think, this new social standard imposed on us—keep calm and stay young—is really a remnant of a patriarchal society.   Indeed, when we talk wrinkle correction for men it is …

Are Cleansing Brushes Safe for You?

  Face cleansing brushes are really good to remove a day’s makeup, dead cells, sebum and all environmental debris. The question is: how safe they are? The truth is then the brush cleansing can lead to couperosis (broken capillaries), irritation, redness, high sensitivity and dryness of the skin. Any exfoliation can occur this kind of problems, but the mechanical exfoliation (the case of brushing) is very special. 1. It is very easy to overuse the device. All skin therapists know very well, how powerful the brushing can be and used professional brushing devices with moderation, never more than 10-20 seconds on the one zone. Sometimes customers are obsessed about enlarged pores or black points and they were desperately trying to clean up the nose or T-zone by brushing the skin 5 minutes or more. They obtain the « feeling of cleanness » but the skin became red and irritated and very quickly it can turn out to couperosis and even to rosacea. 2. The constant exfoliation of the skin obviously destroys all barrier function and TEWL (TransEpidermal …